5 Electrical Jobs You Can Do Yourself and Save Hundreds

Are you tired of paying electricians hundreds of pounds for simple jobs? The truth is, many common electrical tasks are much easier than you think. With the right guidance and safety precautions, you can tackle these projects yourself and keep your money in your pocket.

Tools:

• Voltage tester or voltage pen
• Flathead screwdriver
• Wire strippers (automatic ones are helpful)
• Level
• Socket tester
• Pencil
• Screwdriver (flex electric screwdriver optional)

Materials:

• Replacement light switch (metal or plastic)
• USB/USB-C socket
• 13 amp plug
• Fuses (3 amp and 13 amp)
• WAGO 221 connectors (various sizes)
• Earth sleeving
• Twin and earth cable (offcut)
• Ceiling rose replacement
• Decorative ceiling light

Always isolate the power before working on any electrical project. Turn off the circuit at your consumer unit (fuse box) and verify the power is off using a voltage tester. If you're unsure about any step, consult a qualified electrician.

Step 1: Replace a Light Switch

This is one of the easiest electrical jobs you can do yourself, yet people pay electricians about £80 to do it.

1. Isolate the power – Turn off the circuit that supplies the light switch at your consumer unit.

1. Verify the power is off – Test by turning the light on and off. For extra safety, use a voltage tester on the switch terminals.

1. Remove the old switch – Unscrew the faceplate screws and gently pull the switch forward. Take a photo of the wiring for reference.

1. Identify the wires – In a standard UK light switch:

• Common (COM) – Live conductor (brown)
• L1 or L2 – Switched live (brown sleeving over what was neutral)
• Earth – Green/yellow wire (terminated in the back box)

1. Disconnect the wires – Loosen the terminal screws and remove the live and switched live wires. Leave the earth wire for now.

1. Prepare the new switch – If using a metal switch, you'll need to extend the earth wire. Take an offcut of twin and earth cable, pull out the earth conductor, and cover it with green/yellow earth sleeving.

1. Connect the new switch – Insert the switched live into L1 and the live into COM. Double over single wires for better connection. Tighten screws and pull-test each wire.

1. Connect the earth – Connect the extended earth wire to the earth terminal on the new metal faceplate.

1. Mount the switch – Push wires back, screw the faceplate to the wall, and check it's level.

1. Restore power and test – Turn the circuit back on and test the switch.

Step 2: Install a USB/USB-C Socket

Get rid of those annoying charging bricks and upgrade to a modern socket with built-in USB charging.

1. Isolate the power – Use a socket tester to identify the correct circuit. Plug it in, turn on the power, and note the lights. Turn off circuits until the tester goes silent.

1. Remove the old socket – Unscrew the faceplate and pull it forward. Take a photo of the wiring.

1. Identify the wiring – On a ring circuit, you'll typically have:

• Two live wires (brown)
• Two neutral wires (blue)
• Two earth wires (green/yellow)
• One earth wire to the back box

1. Disconnect the wires – Loosen all terminal screws and remove the wires.

1. Connect the new socket – Check the markings on your new socket (live, neutral, earth). Insert the wires into the correct terminals. Multiple wires per terminal don't need doubling over.

1. Tighten and test – Nip up all terminals and pull-test each wire to ensure they're secure.

1. Mount the socket – Push wires back, screw the faceplate to the wall, and check it's level.

1. Restore power and test – Turn the circuit back on. Test the socket with a plug and charge your phone directly from the USB ports.

Step 3: Wire a 13 Amp Plug

Many people still get this wrong, but it's simple when you know the tricks.

1. Check the fuse rating – Standard plugs come with a 13 amp fuse, but you may need a different rating:

• 3 amp – For lights, TVs, fans (low wattage)
• 13 amp – For kettles, hair dryers, heaters (high wattage)

1. Open the plug – Unscrew the center screw to split the plug body.

1. Prepare the cable clamp – Remove one of the cable clamp screws and loosen the other.

1. Measure the cable – Hold the cable against the plug body and mark where it reaches the top of the plug. This ensures no colored cable is visible outside.

1. Strip the outer sheath – Use wire strippers at your mark. You'll see three conductors inside: live (brown), neutral (blue), and earth (green/yellow).

1. Trim the conductors – For appliances without earth, simply omit that conductor.

1. Wire the live first – Hold the live conductor in position and mark where to trim. Strip 5mm of insulation, twist the strands, and insert into the live pin (with the fuse). Tighten the screw.

1. Wire the neutral – Pop out the neutral pin for easier access. Hold the conductor in position, mark, strip, and insert. Push the pin back in.

1. Wire the earth – Leave the earth conductor slightly longer than the others. This ensures it's the last wire to disconnect if the cable is pulled out accidentally.

1. Secure the cable – Replace the cable clamp and tighten both screws. Give the cable a firm pull to check it's secure.

1. Close the plug – Replace the cover and tighten the center screw.

Step 4: Use WAGO Connectors (Game Changer)

These connectors make DIY electrics safer, quicker, and easier than traditional screw terminals.

1. Choose the right size – WAGO 221 connectors come in 2, 3, and 5 terminal versions. They also make splicers for connecting single cables.

1. Prepare the wire – Strip about 10-12mm of insulation from the conductor.

1. Insert the wire – Lift the orange lever, insert the stripped wire fully, and close the lever. You'll see the conductor through the clear body.

1. Check the connection – Ensure the copper is fully inserted past the strip guide. No exposed copper should be visible.

1. Disconnect if needed – Unlike push-fit connectors, you can easily reopen the lever to remove or rearrange wires.

Step 5: Replace a Ceiling Rose with a Decorative Light

This is the job people are most scared of, but it's straightforward with the right approach.

1. Isolate the power – Turn off the lighting circuit and verify with a voltage tester.

1. Remove the old ceiling rose – Unscrew the collar and lower the rose. Take a photo of the wiring.

1. Understand the wiring – In a standard ceiling rose:

• Neutral block – Three blue wires (incoming, outgoing, and to the bulb)
• Loop block – Three brown wires (incoming, outgoing, and to the switch)
• Switch live block – Brown wire from the switch and brown wire to the bulb
• Earth block – All green/yellow wires together

1. Disconnect all wires – Loosen all terminals and remove the wires.

1. Remove the old rose – Unscrew the base from the ceiling.

1. Prepare the ceiling – If needed, dig out a small area to fit a connection box.

1. Connect using WAGO connectors:

• Connect the two neutral wires (incoming and outgoing) in a 2-way WAGO
• Connect all three live wires (incoming, outgoing, and to the switch) in a 3-way WAGO
• Connect all earth wires in a 5-way WAGO
• Connect the switch live to one side of a splicer WAGO

1. Connect the light's wires:

• Brown (light's live) goes with the switch live in the splicer
• Blue (light's neutral) goes with the other neutrals
• Green/yellow (light's earth) goes with the other earths

1. Secure the connection box – Close the WAGO box and push it up into the ceiling space.

1. Mount the new light – Screw the bracket to the ceiling, connect the remaining live, neutral, and earth wires to the light's terminal block.

1. Attach the light – Push the light up and turn to lock in place. Secure with side screws.

1. Restore power and test – Turn the circuit back on and flip the switch.

1. Always take a photo before disconnecting – This simple step saves hours of confusion when rewiring. Your phone camera is your best friend.

1. Double over single wires – When inserting a single conductor into a terminal, fold the stripped end back on itself. This gives the screw better grip and ensures a secure connection.

1. Pull-test every connection – After tightening any terminal screw, give the wire a firm pull. If it comes out, you haven't tightened it enough.

1. Use WAGO connectors for ceiling lights – They're faster, safer, and easier to work with in tight spaces than traditional screw terminals.

1. Leave the earth wire slightly longer – When wiring a plug, leave the earth conductor a bit longer than the others. If the cable is pulled out, the earth disconnects last, providing extra safety.